Idgy’s offers a gluten-free bonanza

A co-worker who is gluten-intolerant left me a message, which was soon followed by a menu and a suggestion that I check out Idgy’s Facebook page.

But before I had a chance to do all that, I went to a breakfast meeting with two other colleagues. We agreed to meet at that coffee shop in Union Station Plaza, on the corner of White’s Path in South Yarmouth.

We didn’t realize it was now Idgy’s

And I do believe the three of us ate the same eggs and fried potatoes accompanied by delicious toasted rolls without immediately realizing that everything in the restaurant is gluten-free. It’s quite a compliment to the cook, who makes those rolls — and all the food — on the premises. (You can buy a four-pack for $5.95.)

When I asked how she made the rolls so light and fluffy, she answered like a philosophical skateboarder: “Well, it depends on the mix and the weather. It’s very hard to get air.”

Gluten is the protein composite that gives elasticity to dough and makes bread chewy and airy. People with celiac disease or gluten intolerance cannot break down the substance to use the nutrients in the food.

I decided to make another visit and try some of the lunch selections. The ham-and-cheese on white ($5.25) looked tiny, about half the size of a normal deli selection. But looks were deceiving. The bread was dense that day (and a little bland) and the small sandwich more than filling.

I also tried the chicken puff pastry ($7.95). It was delicious but not what I was expecting. Instead of a flaky pie crust, there was a crispy puff pastry (still gluten-free) covered in white sauce with bits of white chicken and carrots. It was delicious but needed to be eaten quickly before the sauce left it sodden.

There are vegan choices (Italian risotto, $8.95) and a half-dozen beef and chicken entrees.

I also bought three chocolate chip cookies ($2.25) and a loaf of white bread ($6.95) for my friend’s son who has to avoid gluten. I think I’ll advise him to toast it and spread it with salted butter.

I don’t have to avoid gluten, but I imagine for someone who does, it would be a huge relief to be able to eat out without worrying about cross-contamination or mixed-up orders. And having so many choices to try in this cute little cafe would be like being a kid in a candy store with a dollar to spend.

Named after a character in the 1991 movie “Fried Green Tomatoes,” Idgy’s is small and casual with a half-dozen or so tables inside and a black cast-iron patio table with chairs outside. Open since May, it is set up like a bakery with a glass case of goodies near the register where you order. The food is delivered to your table.

While the menu is not huge, it offers a nice selection of items that are often not available to people who must avoid gluten: Pizza, panini and quesadillas are high on that list. Being able to finish the meal with cookies, brownies and other sweets is, quite literally, icing on the cake.

Everything is in the $10-and-under range, which makes for an affordable lunch or dinner takeout. While there are more and more gluten-free products available, the luxury of having them in one place and having them taste good enough to also appeal to those without the condition makes Idgy’s a find that is burning up websites geared to gluten-free.

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